Many owners of northern breed dogs want to take their dog to a dog park, but are uncertain as to whether this is a good idea for their dog. If the owner is new to the northern breeds, it may be intimidating enough to just cope with that new Siberian Husky, or even American Eskimo dog. In truth, there is far more to going to the dog park than putting a leash on your dog.

Dog parks can be good alternatives for exercising and socializing northern breed dogs. It is best to be prepared, learn more about the breeds, and learn as much as possible about the dynamics of dogs meeting dogs. Additionally, you will want to prepare your dog medically, and be prepared in other ways for your visits to local dog parks. Most of the problems at dog parks are with people, and not dogs.

It is essential to know and understand the dog park rules, and the etiquette that goes with appropriate use of a dog park. Visits to the park can be a relaxing time for you, while your dog has a fun romp among other dogs. It can also be a disaster if you are ill prepared, or have not prepared yourself and your dog for the visit.

Know the Rules

Drive by your local dog park, and visit it without your dog. On this visit, bring a pen and notebook. Make notes in regard to the rules about the park and its use. Become completely familiar with those rules and how they might apply to you and your family. Dog parks work out best when all the people know and obey the rules.

One of the most obnoxious occurrences at a dog park is the ignorance of visitors who choose to ignore the rules. Bringing underage children into the dog park, bringing food — either personal or treats for the dogs, and bringing in toys or objects that then are left behind, perhaps constituting a danger to other dogs or people — all are too common, and equally objectionable. The rules are posted with an expectation that all benefit when they are obeyed. People who choose to violate them reduce the quality of experience for all of us, and introduce a needless element of danger among innocent dogs and people.

Please take time to know the rules, and help to make sure they are followed by calling them to the attention of others who have not read them carefully.

The prohibitions against underage children are posted equally for the safety of the dogs as well as the children. A child can move unexpectedly, and possibly startle or step on a dog that may then bite the child. The dog may get the death penalty because of the encounter, while the child may only get a scolding, and a bite that takes a week to heal. Not all dogs are socialized to children, and the rules do not *require* that a dog should be socialized to underage children. Rather, the rules are for such children to remain outside of the dog park, and away from dogs that may not be used to children.

Some people do insist on bringing treats for their dog into the dog park. This is a danger to themselves and other dogs, too. Nothing starts a fight among dogs as fast as food. *Treats are food*. Treats should remain in the car.

Training can be done without treats, but if treats are required, then the dog should be trained in another environment — away from the dog park. Offering a treat to your dog in the presence of other dogs can start a fight that could spread quickly to multiple dogs and owners.

People often bring food for themselves, or a drink in a mug or other container. Please discourage this, and avoid doing so yourself. It is a temptation for other dogs — a distraction, and an unwelcome one, as the owner may have brought her or his dog to the park for exercise — not to follow you around in hopes of getting you to let it have whatever you brought. Even a relatively well trained dog can be distracted or curious about food or a beverage you have. I have heard people say that it was nothing but coffee from Starbuck’s, as though that were different. That nice smell entices the dogs, especially if it is not familiar to dogs.

Pay attention to your dog while it is at the park. Understand what it is doing, and be ready to take charge, should an encounter with another dog, or unsafe situation be likely.

People do bring toys to the park. This, too, should not be done, but is a common practice. Your dog may consider it a delight to play fetch at the dog park, but it may annoy another dog if another owner is throwing a toy for her dog, and your dog grabs the toy. A fight can quickly ensue. If you are oblivious to what your dog is doing, you may find that the fight has escalated into a brawl before you are aware that your dog is even involved.

Please discourage owners who bring toys to the park — and especially the owners who abandon the toys, often broken, and walk away without them. Your dog can too quickly pick up that piece of tennis ball, and inadvertently swallow it. This can have unfortunate consequences, the least of which is that you saw it, and had an expensive vet visit as a result. The worst is that you did not see it, and your dog dies a horrible death when it impacts the intestines.

Pick up toys, and throw them away in the trash containers. This is a service to everyone, and perhaps even more important than cleaning up poop from the dogs. It is certainly a courtesy to clean up poop, and it removes a health hazard, but those toys that remain are dangerous in their innocence.

Preparing Your Dog

Before you ever plan your visit to your local dog park, there are things you should know, and think about before making that trip. Make certain that your dog has current vaccinations — actually check, and make a note on a prominent wall calendar if necessary. You cannot know that all the dogs that visit the park have been well vaccinated — some may not have, and could have spread a disease to which your dog will be exposed. This can result in the illness, or death of your dog.

Parvo, for example, remains in the environment for up to 9 months after the dog who had it is gone. If your dog has not yet had all of its vaccinations, it is not yet time to take it to the dog park. I have too often met people with young pups at the park — happy because they just got their puppy, and they are proud to have it at the park where everyone can meet it. This is irresponsible at best, and nearly criminal at worst. The pup can all too easily pick up a disease for which it has no immunity as yet, and spread that disease further because of the careless actions of the owners. Taking a dog not yet properly vaccinated to the dog park is playing Russian roulette with the dog. Make sure your pet has had all vaccinations, and is current with them. It is not enough to just have a rabies tag on your dog. It is advisable to have a Bordetella vaccine, too. Too many times, vets and low cost vaccine clinics skip this important vaccination because you stated that no, you do not expect to board your dog. Dogs get kennel cough from dogs at dog parks quite as easily as at kennels. Kennel cough itself is not any more terrible than a bad cold, but in pups, older dogs, or dogs with a weakened immune system, it may be deadly.

Also, if you are not completely aware of what is happening, your dog might get a further or secondary illness that can result in expensive treatments, or threaten the dog’s life. At the least, you may be inconvenienced and have your vacation ruined, when you find that no facility will board your infected dog until it is 2 weeks clear of symptoms. No responsible groomer will bathe and groom such a dog either.

It follows that if your dog is ill, you should never take it to the dog park. Even if you know what your dog has, and the vet is not concerned about your dog, it is exposing your dog to other infections while it may have a weakened immune system. Keep your dog at home if it appears ill at all.

If your dog is an intact animal, not yet spayed or neutered, you will need to take further precautions. Be sure that if your dog is a female, that she is not in heat, or starting to come into heat. Even if she is not yet in her heat, she will start attracting knowledgeable males as much as 2 to 3 weeks before showing signs to you. If you see this starting to happen, take your dog home. Your dog is not forbidden by rules from the use of the park when her heat is not obvious, but it is a discourtesy to the other owners to bring a dog about to go in heat, or in heat, into the dog park. It can lead to fights, or at the very least, annoy others as it makes it nearly impossible for them to get and retain the attention of their dogs.

If you have an intact male, and choose to take it to the dog park, make sure you have good control over your dog, and that you have already trained with it in multiple settings, so that you can feel comfortable with your level of control. Intact males are more likely to get testy around other males, especially if they are intact, and in the presence of a female who may be coming into heat, or has been in heat recently. Your dog may be an example of good decorum otherwise, but in such a situation, it can become more difficult to handle.

Make sure your dog has the right collars and tags. Your dog should have proper identification and license tags, if they are required, and most places do require them, and it should be microchipped. If your dog should escape, and I have seen dogs escape, you will be less anxious if your dog has proper collars, tags, and is microchipped. Consult our article now on the Lost Dog in the ADRTC Library, to be sure that you have prepared in this regard. Make a good photo of your dog, and take the other steps to be sure your dog is readily identifiable.

Be certain to have good equipment — a good leash or leashes, with clips that work. A mended leash may be suspect, and perhaps should be replaced. Clips become loose over time, and then may separate when you most need them to hold. I usually take an extra tab along that is attached to my belt. Check the collar, and make sure it is able to contain your dog if your dog pulls, or attempts to duck out of it.

Check out our article on collars for your dog.

Make sure that you have a current animal license, if you are required to have one. Some jurisdictions patrol dog parks, and can levy large fines on owners who are not current with license requirements. This is also true of the vaccination requirements, and sometimes, a license may be required for an intact animal that is different from that required for altered animals.

Make certain that you have already treated your dog with a proper flea and tic medication, and in some areas, a heartworm medication. I recommend the heartworm medications with the “plus” indicator, for protection against numerous types of worms that can be at the dog park.

As an example, many areas of the country are susceptible to hook worm, and such medications prevent your dog from getting hook worms. A vet can tell you the dangers in your area, and prescribe proper medication.

Also, if you plan to have your dog vacation with you, visit relatives, or areas not known to you, consider having your dog on such medication *before* leaving for your vacation, as that area may be of far more danger to your dog than the community in which you live.

Know your dog. Spend time with a new dog walking it around your neighborhood. Find out how it acts when on leash, and when it is passing by other dogs, or the homes where other dogs live. Get to know your dog, how it reacts, and make sure it knows when you speak to it, and responds predictably. Note that I did not say that it obeys you, as any Siberian owner will testify, that is not likely, but that it will act as you expect, and so that you are prepared for how it will react. A Siberian Husky when called, is more likely to wander off the opposite direction than come. Being prepared to handle that will spare you embarrassment.

If you are driving to the dog park, then be sure you know where there is safe parking, and that you have a secure vehicle in which to transport your dog. Remember, your dog is going to see and know that other dogs are present, and it will be reacting to this. Have your dog securely restrained when arriving, and be sure to properly place it back in the restraint when leaving. The open bed of a pickup truck is not a proper method of containment or transport. If the pickup is enclosed, make sure the dog is still restrained when you open the back to let it out.

Dog Park Etiquette

There are official rules in park use, and those are violated often enough that it is best to be informed in advance, so that you are prepared to cope with that reality. There are also unwritten rules of etiquette–some of which are mentioned in the preceding section–such as not bringing a dog about to be in heat into the dog park. This unwritten etiquette may vary by community, and by time of day, or day of use. It is the people factor behind dog parks that creates a less certain environment, as with most situations in life.

When you arrive with your dog or dogs, you should already know the basic rules of that park, and you are hopefully well prepared to obey those rules yourself, and be ready for the possibility that not all other visitors will. It is much like driving in that respect.

For a first visit, you may wish to go at a time when the park has few visitors, or none. That will give you a chance to learn how your dogs handle at the park, without too many additional variables. You will want to know how your dog handles the experience before it gets complicated by too many other dogs and dog owners.

As you approach the park with your dog on leash, you may wish to walk around it first, if this is a first visit. This gives you a chance to settle your dog before entering the park. For some dogs, and a new dog especially, it may take several visits to the park with only that happening — your walking your dog around the park a few times for exercise, without ever entering it.

This gives you a chance to get your dog used to the idea of the park and other dogs being in the park. This may take some dogs more time than others. An American Eskimo may need several visits this way before entering the dog park itself. A typical Siberian Husky is likely to be ready on the first visit for any dog park.

When you are ready to enter the dog park, go through the first gate and to the second. Stop there, make sure no one is entering or leaving behind you, and that anyone coming out is either waiting clear of the gate, or wait until they leave. Be aware of who is leaving and entering *before* you let your dog off leash. A husky can unexpectedly bolt in the opposite direction and out the exit gate before you or the owner leaving with a dog realize what has happened.

Once your dog is off leash, hold to its collar as you open the inner gate, and move with your dog, through that gate. If you have 2 dogs, this may take maneuvering. Many times it may be best to take the seasoned dog and send it in first, while preparing the other to walk inside with you.

If your dog is well trained on leash, predictable, and well socialized, it may be just fine to walk through the inner gate with your dog or dogs on leash, and then release them in the park. I do this, but my pack is extremely well socialized, and it is easier for me to do that if the park is busy.

If you have a new dog, or a dog that is notorious for not coming when called, you may wish to have a drag line along. A drag line is a piece of clothes line, or a plastic coated cable attached at one end to a clip. The clip goes on your dog’s collar. The line should be at least 6 feet long, but may be longer if you think it necessary.

The dog drags this line along as it walks about the park. When you want your dog, you walk towards it, not saying anything until you are nearly to the drag line. Then speak quietly and firmly, demanding your dog to come. When it tries to walk the other direction, or run past you, simply step on the drag line. This is a quiet and authoritative method of gaining control over your dog with no hassles, arguments, or embarrassments. No matter how often you use a drag line, and catch your dog this way, it will seem surprised. Dogs cannot remember, and make that association across time. They are surprised that you now have them on leash when they were free.

The breech of etiquette comes when an owner, unsure of their dog, walks into the park, and keeps the dog on leash as they move about the park. The dog, being in this environment for the first time perhaps, or with limited prior visits, is feeling insecure, and starting to bark at all approaching dogs. This may cause other dogs to come over and soon, the vocalizing is escalating to insults, and a potential for a mature and more dominant dog teaching your dog a lesson. Soon, the adults are getting nearly as noisy as the dogs. Learn the etiquette. Take your dog off leash — it will feel more secure, and behave in a more appropriate manner, as it has instincts that tell it how to behave off leash. It has none that help it when on leash.

If There is a Fight

If your dog should end up in a fight, and it is unlikely, unless you kept it on leash when you should not have done so, *do not* under any circumstances insert any part of your body into the fight. Get the other owner, or another experienced person to help.

Breaking up a fight is easy and safe when done correctly, but the number of dog bites in America each year to people breaking up dog fights, indicates how often people do it the wrong way. Be sensible, and keep your body parts out of the fight — do not grab for collars, or try to whack at dogs.

Get that other calm person nearby, who seems to not be upset, and ask her or him to please grab the other dog by the hind legs. That will tell this person that you know what you are doing, and you are more certain to get help. Grab your dog firmly by the hind legs at the leg above the knee. Lift up the rear of your dog, and wheelbarrow it backwards out of the fight. The other person should do this to the other dog at the same time. This stops the fight in seconds, with no one being bitten. Your dog cannot easily turn and bite you if you have its rear legs in the air, and are pulling it backwards. By the time it desists from fighting with the absence of the other dog, it will turn, realize just who has it, and that it is helpless to do anything but calm down.

Congratulations! You have just learned what most of the people at the dog park forget to do when they most need to do it. Teach your friends this technique, and practice it with your dog in situations at home, when there is no fight. You will feel more confident, and be ready if you ever need to do it. I never have had to do it at a dog park , as yet, but I have seen dog fights at dog parks, and I have seen at least one person being bitten, who brought her dog in on leash, and did not know how to handle the resulting fight.

In the event that another owner less knowledgeable than you now are, has entered the park with a dog on leash, and your dog has just jumped that dog, tell the other owner to hang on to the leash only, while you extract your dog via the wheelbarrow technique. If possible, have a nearby experienced person standby to help should the novice drop the leash, and leave you with a strange dog now able to follow and attack your retreating dog. Your friend can step on the leash, or use the wheelbarrow technique to stop the now aggressive dog.

Keep your cool, and carefully educate the new person. There is nothing to be gained by being upset and calling anyone names. Before you read this, you might not have known the proper thing to do, so please be kind and educate an upset and possibly embarrassed person. Just use that sentence I wrote about a dog knowing instinctively what to do when off leash among other dogs, but not knowing what to do when surrounded by possibly hostile dogs when on leash. That leash nearly literally ties the dogs brains in knots and leaves it with an insoluble problem.

Remember, this person may have to be embarrassed later about what he/she said, and have to apologize if they wish to return to the park when anyone is there who saw the encounter. You will not have to apologize if you demonstrate respect and kindness in educating them in how to handle their dog in any dog park.

Dogs with Dogs

A surprising number of people do not know dog behavior well enough to visit a park for a long time. If you are one of those people, please spend time going to the dog park *without a dog*, and learning more about dogs. Read articles, visit people who do know and learn. Watch dogs, and then watch dogs, and watch more dogs. Watch carefully. Pay attention to what they do, how they interact and how they vocalize. I can generally know precisely what is happening with my dogs, or even strange dogs, by just hearing them. At least learn when a dog is threatening, is insecure, is upset, or is playful.

There are many people who go to a dog park and react to every growl, every vocalization as though it is a personal attack on their own dog.

Relax

Dogs at dog parks play. Dog play is an almost ritualistic interaction with dogs making mock threats at one another, or barking to elicit a response. Get used to it, and learn when it is play, and when it is a sign of behavior you need to monitor. Sometimes, you can stop that potential fight by calling your dog, or simply speaking to it in admonishment. Dogs can be like children, and sometimes push another dog a little too far. Letting your dog know that there are limits is a kindness to everyone using the dog park.

One of the nuisance people one meets at a dog park is the over-sensitive owner, who often has the most spoiled dog. The dog is always aggravating other dogs — sometimes not so obviously as in staring, and when it is corrected by a dominant dog that knows how youngsters ought to behave, the owner gets rude and insulting, often making demands that you take your dog and leave. Learn when your dog is appropriate, and when it is not. Scuffles are normal among dogs. That is how they establish authority among themselves. Be prepared to explain this politely and with authority when necessary.

This is advisable, as any dog that is permitted to continue such behaviors will provoke more dogs, and one day, possibly provoke a serious fight. If it is constantly reinforced in having bad behavior, it will develop worse dog manners, and get a much stronger correction from knowledgeable alpha dogs.

People who are not knowledgeable about dog hierarchy and try to carry human notions of peace and silence into a dog park are a jeopardy to the future of their own dogs, and a danger to all other persons using the park. If the spoiled dog does not learn to back down when instructed properly by a dominant dog, a serious fight can ensue, and a person could be bitten if the fight escalates too far.

If such a person continues to attend the park at times when you do, and refuses instruction, then change the time at which you go to the park. You and your dog will be safer, and have a more enjoyable time.

Watch your own dog carefully. Sometimes your dog may annoy another human guest of the park. A dog that is running over and mouthing another person while the owner is clueless, is not welcome. Likewise, the dog that is jumping on people and licking them, while the owner laughs, or thinks it is cute. It might be that your laugh is out of nervousness, and your denial is defensive, but save everyone the embarrassment of telling you your dog is illy maintained, by training it properly, and correcting it if it does attempt to engage in such antisocial conduct.

Most people visiting dog parks will be helpful and will work with you and your dog. Ask them for help in correcting your dog for jumping. They can catch your dog by the front paws when it jumps on them, and continue to hold the dog balanced on its hind legs for a long time. When your dog is starting to dance and complain about the discomfort of supporting its weight on hind legs and lower back, it is time to say “NO!” firmly, and let the dog go. The experience was uncomfortable for the dog, and it will hesitate to do it again. Do this with a dozen people, and in your own family, and you will soon have a dog that is far better mannered.

People naturally meet and discuss their lives and dogs when at the dog park. It is not unusual to meet new friends this way. This is great socialization for you, too, but it must be accompanied by a vigilant watching of your dog. People who become absorbed in their private discussions, or a group story telling, can create a hazard for others if their dogs are starting mischief while the owners are occupied and unaware. Constant awareness of your dog and your dog’s interactions is a courtesy to other visitors and their dogs.

When you are ready to leave the dog park, walk to your dog. Calling your dog from a distance is disruptive and distracting to other people and dogs. Walk over to your dog, and when close to it, call it to you. If you need a drag line to capture it, make sure you put that on in advance of entering the park — possibly when removing the dog from your vehicle.

When you have your dog, put it on a short leash or tab, and walk it to the nearest gate. Make sure no one else is entering, or that you have their attention if you are leaving. Watch other nearby dogs to be sure none is ready to dash out when you exit the inner gate with your dog. Check again as you prepare to leave the second exit gate, as another dog might have managed to open the gate after you by itself.

As you repeatedly visit the park, you and your dog will know what to expect. Going at regular times of day can be helpful to many dogs who appreciate routine. Varying the routine can be helpful to you, so your dog is not always expecting to go at one time, and possibly upset if your schedule does not permit you to take a dog park visit one day.

Lessons for Your Dog

Visiting a dog park not only teaches your dog basic socialization to other people and dogs, but also gives your dog a chance to mature more quickly. Dogs “learn” through a variety of different mechanisms, and one of the important ones is through an environmental stimulation that results in instinctive behaviors being activated. Your dog will gain experiences with other dogs at the park that force these instinctive behaviors and knowledge to become active. This can be most helpful to you. It produces a calmer and more secure dog.

Your dog will learn to use its mouth correctly — not biting too hard, or using it inappropriately. Other dogs can teach your dog that lesson more efficiently than you ever can. Your dog will learn about staring, and why it should not do that to other dogs unless it intends to create an offense. Your dog will learn to be more socially aware of other dogs, as well as people.

You may find that your dog gets far more tired in a dog park than when you go hiking, running, or do other activities with your dog. This is because there are nervous demands on your dog. It is like your going to a party at the boss’s house, or at your mother-in-law’s. The nervous energy exhausts you far more than the physical demands of the situation. The experience may be great fun, but it still requires a heightened social awareness that makes demands on you and your dog.

Copyright 2007, by Gary Wynn Kelly
Please respect the copyright, and only reproduce with all credits to the author and the Arctic Dog Rescue and Training Center. Individuals may copy and distribute this article on a non-commercial basis as long as no modifications are made and this notice is included with all copies. Direct all questions to WWW.ADRTC.ORG.

We get many calls from people wanting to adopt dogs. One of the most common calls I get is the one that begins with, “Do you have any puppies?”

I usually explain that we are a non-profit, tax exempt rescue organization, and only rarely get puppies. I may ask why the caller wants a puppy. I have done this enough to guess the answer most often given by the next caller when I ask yet again–”Why do you want a puppy?”

The most common answer is that the caller wants the children to grow up with a puppy, and the kids to have the experience of watching a puppy grow and develop. When asked about the ages of the children, the response most often is that the children are under the age of 6, and the caller wants a puppy to “bond with the children”.

The consistency of the responses has motivated me to write about this issue. Too often the caller will hang up before discussing the topic further, and I hope that some of those persons will read this, or hear from those persons who do, and perhaps listen carefully.

It is true that we do not usually get literal puppies in rescue. Fewer than 1 in 10 dogs can fairly be called a puppy. We do get many young dogs, as our average dog is between the ages of 1 and 3. Since northern dogs do not mature until age 3, a 1-2 year old dog is young indeed!

Those puppies we do get are mostly 4-6 month old pups. Sometimes, we do get a 9 to 12 week old puppy, but this happens no more often than twice a year typically. Some other rescue groups do receive more puppies, but these are mostly of a mixed parentage.

There are good reasons for this. An individual who gets a puppy may sometimes find that it is beyond the family resources to actually manage and raise that puppy. Perhaps the person bought the pup at a pet store, which most often will *not* take the pup back, or possibly from a “breeder”. I put “breeder” in quotes because a breeder who will not accept a dog back is running a business difficult to distinguish from that of a puppy mill. All truly reputable breeders of integrity will require a contract of sale, in which they specify that they must be given the option first of buying the pup back at no more than the purchase price. No breeder who loves the dogs they breed could stand to think of a dog from their breeding being on the street, or in a shelter.

The other source of puppies to rescue is that from the unfortunate young bitch who comes into rescue pregnant, or who has just had puppies. Mostly these pups are the result of the poor management of the mother, and her becoming pregnant by whatever male dogs got to her when she was available.

Most people do not realize that the bitch in heat ovulates over several days. Thus, a bitch may conceive a litter that has 2 or more fathers to the pups. Perhaps male #1 impregnated the bitch on the first or second day of her heat, and successfully fertilized 2 or 3 eggs. On day 3 or 4, another male, #2, manages to successfully fertilize the newly ovulated eggs, to be the father of those pups. This can be repeated possibly a third time, resulting in 3 males fathering pups in the same litter with the same mother.

It can be quite difficult after the fact, to guess at the parentage of a pup or young dog. One knows who the mother is, if she is still with the pup, but otherwise, it is a best guess. At ADRTC, we do our best to accept those dogs with known northern characteristics into rescue, and avoid those where we may not be qualified or able to provide either accurate or helpful advice on socialization, training, or later handling.

It is our practice at ADRTC, to not place a young pup with a family who has not already successfully raised a pup. Generally we consider the ideal candidate for a pup to be a responsible person who has considerable dog experience, and a successful track record at raising, socializing, and training high energy and difficult dogs. We prefer that the person already own another dog that can act as mentor to a new pup.

Many states have laws allowing a breeder to sell pups at 8 weeks. If a breeder is selling dogs at less than 8 weeks, and allowing those dogs to leave the mother; it is a violation of law, and should be reported.

The truth is that 8 weeks is still far too early for a pup to leave its mother. The reason is that while the pup is weened, it still requires weeks of careful instruction from its mother or an “auntie”. This is *especially* important when the dog is a northern breed puppy. Anyone taking even an 8 week old puppy into a home, without another willing and capable dog to mentor that pup is running the risk of creating a disaster.

At 8 weeks puppies are learning to use their teeth, and northern pups are also often learning to use their claws–for important tasks like digging, scratching, and pulling things apart. If these activities are not mentored successfully, the pup will not learn to *inhibit* the degree to which it engages in these activities. The result can be a dog that is a destructive chewer, digger, or both.

The puppy goes through enormous emotional development during these early weeks, just as human children do in their early years. If the puppy is with one of its own kind, the result can be a stable and emotionally mature dog. The resulting young dog, and later mature dog, can be a model of poise, focus, and a socially aware canine. Conversely, if this emotional support is lacking, the result is too often a hyperactive young dog that has difficulty being trained, and lacks in all socially appropriate behaviors.

Perhaps this sounds all too much like that dog that your friend/neighbor/relative had back when… Too often people feel it was the fault of the owner, and feel that they could do it better if it was only their pup. The truth is, the deck is already stacked against the puppy when it was taken from the pack at too early an age for complete pack socialization, and forced to live among alien humans, who do not make the best mentors in what a dog should know when learning to live among humans. The best teachers for that are dogs who have already demonstrated considerable success in doing so.

The majority of the young dogs we see in rescue are the result of a scenario not very different from what was just outlined. Some person or family got “a puppy for the kids”, and got it maybe at 8 weeks, and possibly tried to raise it in isolation to its kind with disastrous results. Possibly the family did not know that most northern dogs physically grow up quite quickly. They are generally full grown in stature by 8 or 9 months. Many people are shocked when they come to me to adopt a dog, and find that a 12-15 month old dog is not going to grow any larger.

These northern dogs are aliens to us–they do not grow and develop like children. They grow and develop like dogs. This should not be a surprise, but it seems to be to many people.

What does this mean? At 4-6 months, these pups lose their puppy teeth. Those sharp little razors are now replaced with bright new teeth that apparently tingle and motivate the dog to chew on almost anything, just to relieve the urge. Unless their has been very good mentoring before this time, the pup will tend to bite too hard, and chew up many items the owner would prefer to have unchewed.

Even when a puppy is acquired at 8 weeks, it will only be small a very short time. By 8 months, the cutest puppy is nearly at full adult size. In 6 short months, the puppy has grown from puppy to adolescent dog size. What child under 6 will ever remember this 6 month period later with any clarity or appreciation?

I have witnessed too many children who became traumatized to dogs during the puppy to adult transition. The pups have no manners, and children develop fears as quickly as they learn to appreciate a dog. It is no kindness to young children to inflict a rude and challenging puppy on them, and no kindness to the puppy to have children who are not yet responsible, to attempt to handle a puppy with whom they may well be displeased.

Many other problems can result from a pup growing up in an environment of aliens, with no proper mentor. Dogs may become food aggressive, develop severe separation anxiety, or become escape artists. A strong pack provides the young northern pup or dog with a sense of security, and hours of instruction in how to use those teeth and claws properly, as well as diversions for that high intelligence with which each dog comes well endowed.

Humans can be enormously egotistical. One would be hard put to find human parents willing to let primates raise their baby, but nearly all those parents believe themselves fully capable of raising an 8 week old pup to be a well behaved dog at maturity. They are so confident of their own ability, that they bet hundreds of dollars on it when they buy a puppy from a pet store.

Mostly, what happens is that the pup grows up far faster than the new human parents can believe it will. In the first 2 months the pup more than doubles in size and weight. It starts getting adult teeth, and it will again nearly double in size by 6 months of age. In 4 short months, the pup has gone from a dog one could comfortably hold in one hand or arm, to a dog nearly 80% of its adult size. During those 4 months, the human parents just found that with work, children’s activities, and family commitments, the dog just did not get enough training. But, it is still young, and they resolve that in the next 6 months, they will get all that training done they intended to do.

Most people remember that old cliche about one year in a child’s life being 7 years in a dog’s life. Few ever try to scale that to a day, a week, or a month. Each day that one misses training and handling a puppy is a week in that puppy’s life–a week gone forever. Each month is 7 months of lost time–almost an entire school year, and one in which the puppy failed to learn critical skills when it was most important to know them.

In the years that we directed CCNDR we average 50-60 dogs in rescue each year. That is approximately one dog a week that came from a family that failed to fulfill their good intentions to raise a northern dog to be a good citizen in the community. Yes, there are exceptions–about 10% each year come to us trained, and well socialized for other reasons than that the family failed. Sometimes these dogs came as the result of a medical misfortune, or relocation of the family and an inability to take the dog along.

This means that approximately 90% of the dogs we see in rescue are young dogs–between the ages of 1 and 3 mostly, that need considerable training and socialization before they can be reasonably placed in good homes. I sometimes call these “heathen dogs”.

I take these dogs and put them through a rigorous socialization and training routine. Each dog has to learn to live in a well socialized pack run by a mature alpha female, our Akamai. We sometimes call this boot camp. I take each dog out every day for training until it has basic obedience and leash skills. Each dog is crate trained, and each gets regular grooming so it can be handled for brushing by a new owner.

During this time, the dog is spay/neutered, and receives all of its necessary vaccinations. We come to understand it as an individual dog, and we test it in a wide variety of community situations to identify and work through potential problems to living in urban neighborhoods. By the time a dog is “adoption ready”, we know what kind of family in which it will thrive, and what limitations to placement remain, if any. We come to know its individual personality, and we have identified many of the dog’s preferences and dislikes.

When a family goes to buy a puppy, very little is known of that pup’s personality, as it has not yet matured enough to evidence those characteristics it will have later. The family will make decisions that will help mould the pup, but not necessarily through understanding nor with the assistance of skilled mentors who do know what the pup needs.

The result can be a dog with a personality quite different from that the family imagined the dog should/would have. I have seen this at the back end–when the family calls rescue, and wishes to know if we can take the dog, because with the new baby and all, they just cannot handle it. It has so much more energy than they imagined, and the children no longer can play with it, as it is too rough, and too strong. They have tried, and spent a lot of money on this dog. They took it to 8 lessons in obedience, and those were 45 minute lessons, costing $XXX.

Nature clearly intended the northern dog to live in a pack. The purpose and point of a pack is that it takes a pack to raise a pup successfully–sort of the northern dog equivalent of “It Takes a Whole Village…”.

That pack works hard, and that pack works full time–full time as working with the pup for every waking moment during those critical months when time flies, and puppies grow so terribly fast. Once Mom has finished nursing the pup, there are “aunties” to take over, and they play and teach puppies with structured games, and often harsh discipline. When the pup is a little older, the males take up instruction, and then the games do get rough. But the pup grows to be gentle, as it learns what adult teeth and adult size means, and how to control its assets. A gifted martial arts instructor could not teach a youngster so well as nearly any well bred and nurtured dog teaches puppies.

Northern dogs *are* pack dogs. That is their beauty and their curse. Given time to mature properly with pack instruction, as Nature intended they should, these dogs become some of the most amazing companions a family will ever know. Raised outside of a healthy pack, they can become willful, unresponsive, frustrating, and more difficult to manage than any owner imagined a dog could be. Some unfortunate cases become biters, fence jumpers, destructive chewers, or simply unable to respond any longer to humans in whom they have lost faith. Even the gifted pack at CCNDR/ADRTC has its limitations. When we see those, we leave them to die at the shelters, or decline to accept them as owner surrendered dogs.

As for bonding… A pack dog has been gifted with a genetic endowment that ensures each and every dog has the ability to bond with a pack, and become a good member of that pack. This mechanism is so strong that we can often take an extremely and wayward dog, and have our pack bring it around to becoming one of the happiest and well adjusted dogs in the community. Humans should have such incredible mechanisms for achieving mental health even when they came from an environment unfavorable for such a balance. Thus, the northern dogs we have placed were able to achieve a strong bond with a new owner–not always the first owner, but the right owner. I have had a dog fail with one owner, to become the outstanding good citizen and companion of another. Most of our adopting families claim that a northern dog adopted as an adult, makes a better family companion than any dog they ever owned. We say that a rescued dog never takes a good home for granted, and is so intelligent that it knows how to keep the good “pack” it now has.

If you are a gifted person with considerable time and talent, and have the resources to raise a northern dog pup because you do know and realize the responsibility in doing so, please *do* raise another puppy or two! We want the next generation to enjoy these dogs as thoroughly as each of us has who owns a pack today. Contribute your time and talent to ensure that smiles will break out on the faces of hundreds of people who will come to know your mature good canine citizen tomorrow.

If you have limited time, knowledge, resources, and face many other responsibilities in living in a tough world, please come to us, and adopt a mature dog first–one that can give you the gift of companionship in a way you never knew was possible, and from whom you may, if you are humble and perceptive enough, come to know a beauty and spirit that will transcend your dreams, and prepare you so that one day, possibly one day, you can help to raise a puppy for your grandchildren.

Copyright© 2002, 2007 by Gary Wynn Kelly. Please respect the copyright.
Contact ADRTC.org for permission to redistribute our articles.

Many persons participating in the rescue, fostering and placement of dogs are assumed to know the basic philosophy of Rescue, and the process in philosophical terms simply, because they engage in the mechanical activities of doing the work. This, too often, is not so, as most persons began doing rescue by emulating the activities of Rescue, rather than engaging in the development of an understanding of “why Rescue?”

Rescue organizations should not assume that persons from the public automatically “know” about Rescue, and what it does, or should do–even when such persons may have procured a companion from a Rescue organization. These persons may be especially focused on the fact that their own companion was “saved” by Rescue.

It has been our experience that most persons in the public calling to have us “save my dog”, are of the belief that Rescue saves dogs from being killed by heartless organizations with bureaucratic persons and policies who would rather kill dogs all day long than understand the emotional conflicts of an owner rationalizing the surrendering of a companion. These people, as many in the public, believe we are, or have been, touched by some religious experience that endows us with a sense of mission to save animals, like a missionary saving souls. The truth is that responsible Rescue does not save individual animals. Responsible Rescue must have a focus on the breed, rather than on any individual animal. Saving animals is fine, but it is not the appropriate mission for Rescue. Organizations or individuals with a focus on saving individual animals should not be affiliated with Rescue as the difference in focus can compromise the mission of Rescue. Thus, it becomes imperative to have a regular discourse on the focus and philosophy of Rescue to ensure that all involved are in concert with the definitions of the mission.

In the evaluation process for the rescue of any dog, the evaluator must maintain an objective focus on whether the candidate dog displays the characteristics of the breed that the organization wishes to promote. The evaluator must keep in mind that each dog placed becomes an ambassador to the public advertising both the Rescue organization, and the breed to which it may be perceived to belong.

In subsequent paragraphs, the philosophy of the Arctic Dog Rescue and Training Center (ADRTC), is outlined in terms of the evolving practice of Rescue, ADRTC style. Other organizations will have their own styles, and perhaps some variation in philosophy.

At ADRTC, we wish to represent the best points of the breed, and select those dogs for rescue that exemplify why we believe northern dogs are great companions for families. In selecting a dog, we keep this in mind each time. We ask ourselves: Does this dog represent what we want people to learn and experience in owning a northern breed dog?

Thus, we first ask ourselves if the dog physically is identifiable as a northern breed dog. Will it be perceived by the public as being of a northern breed, and can we represent it fairly as having the characteristics of the northern breed to which we ascribe it?

Does the candidate dog evidence the behavior of the northern breeds, and can we reliably counsel a family in behavioral aspects of this dog based on the behavior we see?

Does the dog have the behaviors and/or the appearance we wish to have the adopting public, and other persons who will come to know this dog, to know and identify with the breed and our organization?

Are there negative behaviors that will create a negative impression on the part of the public about the breed or our organization? Can they be resolved with existing resources while in foster care? And, most importantly, can we, as evaluators accept the responsibility for doing so?

We always try to have the adopting family in mind when evaluating a dog. Who is going to adopt this dog? Is it very likely, somewhat likely unlikely, or very unlikely, that we will find an adopting family in 1-3 months? If the answer is unlikely, or very unlikely, then the dog should be passed on as a candidate for rescue by ADRTC.

While there are no hard criteria for rescuing a dog, there are some general guidelines that might be followed to do effective rescue. One might say the problem of rescue is a problem of “fuzzy” logic.

The following criteria have been gained from experience we at ADRTC have had in the rescue of northern breed dogs:

1. Females are generally preferred over males by the adopting public.
2. Smaller dogs generally adopt more readily than larger dogs.
3. Younger dogs are far more valued than older dogs.
4. Forget about all of the above, if the dog is cat tolerant.
5. With each year beyond 1 year, add an additional asset:
obedience, house broken, leash trained, good looking, gets along great with other dogs, children, or has some off leash potential.
6. Subtract away an asset for every major liability, and consider some liabilities to be fatal for an adoption, such as: Fence jumping as a fatal asset. Escape artists in general are a problem, as are problem diggers, destructive chewers, or excessively noisy dogs.

In general, if a dog has bitten anyone, more than in the case of a puppy disciplining a wayward child who should have been more closely supervised, or in instances where an inexperienced owner was bitten as a result of breaking up a dog fight, it is not a candidate for rescue. The liability is too great for Rescue to take on a known biter.

Fence jumpers who clear 6-8 foot fences have no future in rescue. Too few people have the means or willingness to contain one, and such a dog is usually in Rescue for many months, potentially jeopardizing the rescue of another dog(s) who may be killed, because there is no space in a foster home for more fosters. On occasion, it does happen that a fence jumper does come into rescue, because it was not known to be a fence jumper until rescued. Such dogs can be placed, and have been to date, but they do constitute a problem for any Rescue. The Staff of ADRTC has placed a couple, and we breathed a sigh of relief when we did as opportunities for placement are too few, and too often far between.

We try to leave a little room in our estimates for our own individual judgment and errors, and for the unknowns that any dog brings with it. In spite of all, we do know when we evaluate a dog, we have to allow for what we do not know, or can not know, because any dog will be different when not in a shelter, or in the home from which it came.

Sometimes luck is in our favor. We find out that a dog had training already, was house broken, or is cat tolerant. Sometimes it works against us, as when a dog turns out to be a destructive chewer. Thus, one should have a “fudge factor” in the equation for any assessment.

It takes fuzzy logic, intuition, and an avoidance of getting one’s emotions into the decision process. It is essential to focus on the good of the breed, and evaluate each dog in terms of how it will represent the breed and Rescue to the public.

The climate of adoption constantly changes. At some times of year, a great dog will not place no matter how many people seem interested, and at other times, a dog of more dubious character will place immediately. These differences are seldom predictable. The resources of any organization are finite, and must allow for the unpredictability of the adopting public.

The potential foster home must also be an ingredient in the selection of any dog for Rescue, after the dog has passed muster on its own merits. Even a dog that is worthy of Rescue may have to be passed over, if existing resources do not allow for the compatible fostering of the dog. We have had instances where another male or female could not be accommodated into an existing foster home, or the demands of the candidate dog were beyond the foster care resources then available. That the dog is a great candidate is good news, but that alone will not save the dog unless resources of the rescue organization are sufficient to provide high quality foster care–which comes down to an individual commitment and responsibility to each rescue candidate.

Theoretically, almost any dog will place given time. Rescue has limitations in resources and spaces, and the dog may experience emotional trauma in being uprooted after a lengthy stay in foster care. While the focus of Rescue must be on the breed, during the evaluation process for rescue, this must change once the dog has been selected and procured. At that time, the Rescue is a reality, and the foster care process must begin.

The dog must become the focus of concern in the foster care process. Each dog should be prepared as an ambassador for both Rescue and the breed it represents. That preparation must include the resolution of medical issues, and the training essential for the dog to be displayed in public at its best. This goes well beyond simple grooming, and having a dog altered.

Successful, and responsible rescue require that the management process of Rescue take all of these factors into account, and share the philosophy, rationale, and fuzzy logic of the process with all those involved in the rescue process. It is our experience that persons volunteering at all levels are more willing to make commitments when they have a greater understanding of what the organization is actually doing to carry out the mission of rescue, and that the adopting public is impressed and persuaded to participate when the organization is perceived as carrying out responsible rescue.

The author has rescued and placed more than 400 arctic breed dogs, and it is from those experiences that this paper was developed. It was the guide we used at CCNDR.ORG for many years, and we have but modified it slightly since moving to Albuquerque. We found that many people appreciate that we take such great care in selecting a dog for rescue. We hope you will, too.

Please respect the copyright. Contact ADRTC.ORG for permission to reprint this article, or distribute it. We generally grant permission to persons and organizations that wish to do so for no profit, and who agree to not modify or alter this article. We require that appropriate credit to the author, and to ADRTC.ORG be maintained.

I wrote this while operating the Central Coast Northern Dog Rescue in Salinas, California. The points raised in this paper are still good advice, and may help many dog owners. On the average of twice a month, someone who lost a dog and was desperately trying to locate his or her lost companion contacted me. It is better to prepare in advance for this eventuality, as it will facilitate finding your companion more quickly if some steps have been taken in advance to ensure your pet’s safety.

Step 1: The Microchip

During 2002, CCNDR started micro chipping nearly all of the dogs placed. All of my personal dogs are micro chipped, and I believe firmly that all dogs should be micro chipped. A microchip is currently the only absolute identification method for a dog that will get it back to the owner if possible.

A microchip is a tiny silicon chip. It is a special chip that when triggered by a radio frequency, returns an answer in the form of a number. A scanner made for that purpose reads the number. The technology is called RFID, for Radio Frequency Identification. It has been used for years in industry, but only since 1990 has it been available for pets.

The microchip is injected into a pet behind the shoulders. It is beneath the skin, and does not harm the dog. Once injected, the dog forgets that it is there.

The next important step is the registration of the chip! It remains useless until the registration is filed with the associated fee. That fee and registration guarantee that the number on that chip now in the pet are recorded in a computer data base, along with the name and information about the owner. The contacts for the owner and a secondary contact are in the computer. If the dog is later lost and recovered by Animal Control or a private party who takes it to a vet, the Animal Control officer or vet tech can scan the dog and make a call to an 800 number to learn how the owner may be contacted. *It is essential to correct this data if any of the contact information changes–i.e. telephone numbers, address, or alternate contacts.*

A tattoo can serve a similar purpose, but a tattoo can be disguised, become illegible or be missed by the party who finds the dog. A microchip is a far more certain method of absolute identification. There is no harm in having both but a microchip is the better of the 2 methods if only one is chosen.

Step 2: Collars and Tags

The second step one can take in advance to protect a pet is to have a proper collar and a proper ID tag on the collar. Many times collars are left off the dog or tags off the collar for all kinds of reasons. I have heard many of them, and none sound very good when the pet is missing. It is best to think about that now–while your pet is still safe at home. Put a proper collar on the dog that will hold the tags securely. Make sure the tag or tags are secure on the collar. Do not leave this to chance. There is an article in the CCNDR Library on collars for your dog. It too, is an important article.

Your pet should be wearing at least one tag that has your own address and phone number. Be sure both are current and that the tag is legible. Tags do wear out, fall off or the information is no longer accurate when phone numbers change.

One of the most likely times that a pet becomes lost is when a family moves. The dog is often confused, the routine-schedule is changed or the property is not yet as secure and all of those can contribute to a dog being lost. Change the dog tag as a part of moving! When the boxes are being packed, purchase a new tag with the new information and put it on the dog. I have had people call to tell me that they had the new tag but did not yet have it on the dog. I can only imagine how badly they must have felt about not having been as thorough as they should have been for their companion that was now missing.

At CCNDR we advise leaving the NAME OF THE PET OFF THE TAG. Some dogs do get stolen. In Monterey County, nearly 40% of the dogs that are reported as missing to CCNDR remain missing. Providing a party with ill intent the name of your dog can only facilitate the theft. Follow the same rules as one follows with children. This is where a microchip may be especially valuable.

Having a second tag such as a license is always advisable. That gives a second method for finding the owner that is independent of the first. Dogs adopted from CCNDR/ADRTC have a contractual requirement that the tag be kept on the dog at all times.

Step 3: Pictures of the Dog

It is an excellent idea to keep current pictures of your dog on file. If you have a digital camera or have a family member with one, keep a few pictures on the computer so that they can later be reproduced quickly and easily should it be necessary. Make photographs that truly show the dog and how it is marked, as opposed to something cute the dog may be doing. I have had photos sent to me of dogs that showed the dog from an angle where it was not possible to make any true identification of the dog. A side and face shot, or a couple of each, are advisable.

Step 4: Description of the Dog

While you are calm and before your pet is ever missing, write out a physical description of your dog. Get other family members or friends to read it and see if they can add to it or help to revise it to readily describe your dog in a concise paragraph.

Sometimes a couple of examples can help people to write such a description. Since we at CCNDR have to write them all the time, I can give examples of what might be in a good description.

Siberian Husky – Bruno, a neutered gray and white male of 2 years, is missing. He has one brown eye, and one eye that is mostly brown but has a speck of blue in it. It is his right eye that has the blue. Bruno weighs 55 pounds and is a light gray and white. He has a light gray mask on his white face and gray ears. His tail and feet are white. He has a light patch of buff just above his tail at the bottom of his back. He carries his tail in a tight curl over his back. Bruno is wearing a green Alaskan collar and was wearing tags when he was last seen.

American Eskimo – Star is a 3-year old spayed female of 23 pounds. She is all white and has a full coat. The inside of her ears appear pink in daylight and she has one broken tooth on the right upper side near the front. She carries her tail up and it is a fluffy tail. Star is very friendly and walks along proudly. She was wearing a red Alaskan collar with tags when she escaped her home.

The point to the descriptions is to describe any unique features the dog may have and to give enough description so that the dog can be told from any other dog of its breed. This can be hard to do with American Eskimo dogs or Siberians that either are black and white, or gray and white, as they are quite common and appear similar to persons not familiar with the breed.

Step 5: Vaccinations for the Dog

Make certain that your pet has current vaccinations. It does little good to have done all the other steps and then skip the vaccination of the dog. Yes, this happens all too frequently. Most of the dogs we get from Shelters have not been vaccinated against Bordetella, for example, and most dogs come down with kennel cough as a result. Those are the lucky ones. Many die of parvo, distemper, and other illnesses at shelters or even after rescue. CCNDR had one lovely 1-year old Siberian Husky male die of parvo virus in the fall of 2002. Imagine the horror of recovering a dog from a Shelter only to have it die in a couple of weeks of an illness contracted while at the shelter.

Step 6: License the Dog

Most cities and counties require that dogs be licensed. Many owners do not do this, but should. The license comes with several benefits:

1. The County or City will now know how to find you should they recover your dog with its tag. A microchip makes this process even more certain.

2. The city or county will send you regular notices letting you know when a rabies vaccination is necessary for your dog. This helps you remember to keep vaccinations current.

3. Any person finding your dog loose with a valid license tag will know you are a responsible owner. Often such people try to help get the dog back to its home.

Step 7: Train the Dog

When a dog is loose, it is at the mercy of members of community. If the dog is obnoxious, ill mannered, untrained and perhaps even unkempt, it is automatically treated differently from a dog that is obviously well mannered, friendly, obedience trained and that appears to have received proper care. Good training and proper care of your dog can be an excellent investment in the safety of your dog should it become lost.

There are many times that these first 7 steps will guarantee your dog’s quick and safe return to your care, should it become lost. In most instances when all of these steps have been taken, the dog is returned in only hours. There are times when these steps have not been enough. Unfortunately, there are times when the owners have not yet taken all 7 steps at the time the dog becomes lost. The following steps are those to be taken in such circumstances.

Step 8: Circulate photos and *visit* the County Shelter, the SPCA, and the nearest City Shelter. Knowing you and having your dog’s picture posted there makes a difference. Sometimes people pick up a dog and transport it to their town or to a shelter further away. That is why it is good to visit shelters anywhere in the area. Give them complete contact information, along with your written description of the dog.

Step 9: Run an ad in the local paper for your lost dog. Advertise that there is a “reward” but do not specify an amount. If you get calls that want to know about the reward, ask to see the dog *first*. If the call is from out of state, *contact the local police*–it is almost certainly a scam to get you to send money first and never see a dog. Unfortunately, there are people who use online newspaper ads to take advantage of other people by acting in a very convincing manner. The stories often go, “We were on vacation and saw the dog running by the freeway. We love dogs and did not want this wonderful dog to get hit, so we brought it home with us. We could not stay to go to the shelter. If you just send the airfare for the dog, we will put him on the plane and he will be back with you in a day!” Those who send the airfare never see the dog, and end up sadder.

Step 10: Place local posters in the area where the dog was lost–and around the general area that shows a picture and a text about the reward–with no reward amount given. Print the description with the poster. This is where that digital photo and description can really help.

Step 11: Also notify vets in your area, and in the area where the dog was lost, that the dog is chipped and the identifying features of the dog. IF someone brings them a dog that is “new”, they can often scan for the chip. If the dog is still un-chipped, give the vet a full and thorough description of the dog and a photo if possible.

Step 12: If you are online, then place notices on all applicable websites that permit pictures and descriptions of lost dogs in your area. Different websites have different requirements. Some are breed specific and some accept any breed as a listing. It is best to spend time learning the requirements and making a correct posting.

When all of these steps have been taken, it is best to be patient. Keep looking for at least 3 months. Many owners quit in a week when they fail to find their dog. This is often far too short a time. We have helped to recover dogs as long as 3 months later. It helps to keep in touch with the Shelters in your area and to keep the online listings current. If the dog was lost in a specific area, and this is near enough, it helps to print handbills and personally spend time handing them out to people who may have seen the dog or been in the area at the time the dog became lost. This method has produced successful recoveries of a dog 3 months later.

If you have questions or suggestions, please contact us through ADRTC.ORG.

Copyright© 2005, 2007, by Gary Wynn Kelly. Please respect the copyright. Contact us for redistribution requests through ADRTC.ORG.

Many people wish to be responsible dog owners. Here are some tips gathered from some very responsible owners who want to help anyone interested in becoming a better, more responsible owner. Please add your contributions to our growing list of tips for maintaining a healthy and happy dog.

• When taking your dog in the car, remember to plan your schedule so your dog is always with you. Avoid leaving that favorite friend in the car for even a few minutes. It can take as little as 4 minutes for your dog to die in a car left in the sun. Leave your dog at home, or skip stops where you cannot take the dog in with you, until another day.

• Northern dogs must be confined or restricted at all times to be safe. Some dogs are lucky, and avoid being hit by a car when running loose, but it is much like playing Russian roulette–eventually, the dog will lose if it is loose. The worst news is that it might not die, but either suffer terribly, or be maimed.

• Our CCNDR contract specifies that any dog adopted from CCNDR must ride inside of a truck, or under a protective cover. Dogs that ride in open backs of pickup trucks are in danger no matter how secure the harness or tie downs. Flying rocks, or even insects, can blind a dog or injure it severely.

• Chocolate is poison to dogs. Especially during holiday visits, Christmas, New Year’s, Valentine’s Day, Easter, and even birthday celebrations, be sure that chocolate is out of the reach of your dog. Put it inside of cupboards, or in places secure from your dog’s curious nose, which can smell even well wrapped treats quite easily, as it is more than 100 times as powerful as the best human’s. 40% of a dog’s brain is dedicated to translating those good smells, and acting on them. Chocolate is a terrible poison to dogs as it accumulates in your dog’s system, eventually damaging major organs and contributing to an early, and perhaps miserable, death of your dog.

• CCNDR recommends that children under 5 always be supervised by a responsible person when with a dog. This is for the dog’s protection more than that of the child. Children can quickly blind a dog; injure its hearing, or making the dog ill, by feeding it items that are dangerous to your dog.

• Open car windows maim dogs. There are too many ads that show happy dogs putting their heads out of car windows to enjoy the scenery and the breeze. This is a discourtesy to the public, as dogs have been killed by other passing vehicles, leaped from car windows to their death, or been struck by flying debris and severely injured. The same rules that apply for your children keeping hands and heads in cars apply to your dog. Spare yourself a terrible memory of having your favorite friend beheaded in your car.

• Dogs live approximately 10 to 15 years in most northern breeds. It is much like having a child growing from infancy to adolescence. Just as your child will not become fully responsible in 15 years, your dog will not either, though some parents swear the dog has more sense. Remember to respect your dog’s differences–the great need for exercise every day, a safe place to stay, regular veterinary exams, continued training and stimulation, a healthy diet, fresh water, attention to the environment, so it is safe in hot or stormy weather.

• Remember the emotional needs of your dog. The dog requires love and attention every day, just as any other partner does. Joint activities that are fun and interesting are good for the mental health of your pack. As you add to your dog’s education and training, you will have more and more things you can do with that special friend.

• Grooming is an excellent activity to do with your dog when you are tired, and not up for mental acrobatics. It can be one of the most soothing daily activities you do together. This is an excellent time to check your friend over for sores, tumors, parasites, unusual skin problems, weight gain, sensitivity to pressure or touch in areas where this is not normal. You can promote your dog’s health by being the first to find a potential problem. It also will save you much guilt and emotional pain later, when you know that you have done all that was possible to lessen your dog’s illness or death. People who work hard to take good care of their friends, often find that they are promoting healthier habits in their own lives.

One day you went to the website, WWW.ADRTC.ORG, and found that you were fascinated with a picture of a certain dog. You had perhaps, visited this site many times before, and enjoyed the pictures, but you were always able to leave with just a smile.

But on this day, there was a picture of a special dog that you just could not put from your mind. You finally gave in, and visited the dog at the foster home. It was just a visit, because you were curious, and maybe looking for a dog…if it was just the right one. Now that you know it is, and you are about to bring it home, you will want to know what you have done, and what you are going to have to have at home to make this new dog a proper member of your family!

Here is a beginning list that we hope will help. Please send us your comments and suggestions for changes and additions, so others can benefit from your experiences.

1. Feeding and food

We recommend stainless steel pans. Pans of 2 and 3 quarts work best with most of the breeds we place. Stainless is best as it is durable, goes through a dishwasher readily, which we recommend, and the dogs will not chew it up.

Aluminum is *not* recommended as it can be ingested in small quantities by the dog, and may impact health negatively. Aluminum has been implicated in brain disorders, so we avoid using it when it is not necessary.

We recommend 2 bowls; one for food, and one for water. Additional water bowls may be required depending on your arrangements for the dog.

2. Food

We recommend feeding your dog a natural dog food. There are many more of these on the market now than in former times. Avoid grocery store foods. They are rarely good nutrition for the northern breeds. Good foods can be bought at feed stores, pet stores, and even through the internet or by calling and ordering them to be sent to you.

There are many natural dog foods that work well. Some examples are those products made by Naturapet, such as Health Wise, Nutro’s, Natural Choice, and others from Solid Gold, Pinnacle, or Lundquist, to name a few.

It is best to feed dogs dry food only, as it helps to keep their teeth clean. Some northern dogs can be finicky eaters, so this may be a challenge at times.

We recommend avoiding snacks, and using treats only as a means of getting the new dog to work harder at meeting your requirements. Remember, when you feed a dog, it can stimulate the need to empty its intestines, and make it more difficult to teach your new family member proper house habits.

3. Each dog from CCNDR comes with at least one collar. You should not need additional collars, but a leash is necessary. A rule to always remember is that the longer a leash, the less control the holder of that leash has over the dog. Use a short leash for maximum control over your dog, and continue using it until you are certain of your dog’s behavior in every circumstance. Short tabs are also helpful in managing your dog. Use long leashes only for training purposes, or later for recreation when you and your dog are able to work together effectively.

4. A good crate is an ideal way to start out happily with your new dog. Almost every dog from CCNDR is crate trained when placed. Many are also trained on tie down lines. A crate can be like giving your new dog a private room in which to go and sleep, eat, or play quietly with toys. If you have more than one dog, a crate is almost a necessity, but even with only one dog, a crate will help your dog feel secure. A dog that is properly crate trained thinks of a crate as security, rather than confinement. It is a safe place where a dog may relax without having to be concerned about what is happening in the world in the rest of the house or beyond. For an average size dog, such as a 50 pound Siberian, a size 400 crate is quite adequate. If a mesh crate is preferred, the “small” size works well. The mesh crates have the advantage that they often are collapsible for storage if necessary. The plastic crates with nearly solid walls, are good for shipping a dog, or transporting it easily.

5. An identification tag with the new address, phone number, and your name is an excellent item to get early. Dogs from CCNDR have an Alaskan collar, and a CCNDR identification tag with a unique number that helps us to reference the dog if it is found. We recommend that you add a personal tag, leaving off the dog’s name, but putting on your name as the owner. Adding the dog’s name may encourage a person to steal your dog, as they then know the proper name of your pet. It may become more difficult to prove that the dog is truly yours, if you have not yet microchipped the new dog.

We strongly recommend microchipping dogs. Some of our dogs are chipped, but many are not. We would do this for all the dogs, except that the costs are still beyond our current resources. We hope this will change in the near future.

6. Grooming tools.

For general use, a Slicker brush works on most northern breeds of dogs. Longer haired dogs, such as Siberians, Samoyeds, Keeshonds, and some malamutes, may require a rake. A longer rake with teeth close together is better than one with short prongs, and spaced too far apart. Other tools that may help on many dogs are a ’sheddin blade’, a “zoom groom” or equivalent, and a comb.

7. Medications – flea, tic, and heart worm.

If fleas are a concern in your environment, then Advantage or Front Line are good products to use on your new dog to prevent fleas. If tics are a concern, then Front Line should be used, as it kills tics also. We recommend that one set up a schedule for applying these once a month–perhaps the first weekend of each month, so that it is done regularly. For Front Line, application can be once every 2 to 3 months.

We recommend that each owner consult with their local vet to see if the use of a heart worm medication is warranted in their area. Some areas are nearly free of heart worm, but many have a high incidence. The choice of activities you do with your dog makes a difference, as well. While you may live in a dry area with no heart worm incidents, you may hike with your dog in the Santa Cruz Mountains, where it is more common. Heart worm prevention is available in several forms. All require a prescription from a vet. Flea preparations are sold over the counter. Mail order is an option for either or both, often at a discount.

8. Miscellaneous Supplies – Nature’s Miracle and Bitter Apple.

While many of the dogs from CCNDR are mature and trained, many are pups or adolescent dogs who still chew, and require training. For the pup inclined to chew on things which it should not, there is Bitter Apple. It can be sprayed on items such as chair legs, to keep a pup from trying to chew them.

Nature’s Miracle is great to have around for any dog. Even well trained dogs can throw up on a carpet, or become ill in the house. After cleaning up the spot with carpet cleaning supplies, it is good to use Nature’s Miracle on the spot. Nature’s Miracle is a solution of natural enzymes that break down the organic components, and over a couple of weeks, not only rid the carpet or rug of an odor, but can often remove any traces of a stain, as well. We buy it by the gallon through mail order, but we often have 40 to 50 dogs living in our home in one year! It works great for use in the automobile. We more often use it there when a new dog gets ill, or a dog transported to or from spay/neuter surgery has an accident in the car. We have had reason to test this product well.

9. Bedding for your dog is best kept simple. We recommend that the crate be used for sleeping, but with a very well house broken dog, this is not necessary. Two of our dogs are crated, and one is not. It is not necessary to have all crated, nor all loose. Dogs have no human sense of fairness or equality. We use bath towels as bedding for the dogs in their crates. This is an excellent idea, as the towels are easily washed and used again. Rugs, carpets, and dog beds may be more difficult to keep as clean. Dog beds work with dogs beyond the chewing stage, but are best avoided as beds for younger dogs who are inclined to believe you are providing a “bed for breakfast”.

Old towels that are no longer your best guest towels are fine for your new dog. Often other family and friends will donate additional old towels to be used when your dog requires them.

10. Toys are always an item that new owners want to provide for their dog. We recommend avoiding rawhide, as northern dogs will often eat so much of it that it irritates their intestines, causing an intestinal upset that can take days to get over, and make both the owner and dog miserable. Many pet and feed stores will welcome you and your dog for a shopping trip to pick out toys. This can be a good idea as a way of socializing your dog, and in getting some help in picking out some alternative toys that will interest your dog. Squeaker toys often fascinate northern dogs, but the dogs may eat the squeaker from the toy, so it is a toy best given when you are around to be a supervisor. Nylon or vegetable chew toys work for a few dogs, and string toys are popular with young dogs. We find that cured cow hooves work well for a broad spectrum of northern dogs. Buy from a quality establishment to avoid potential problems. We have heard of issues with hooves, but not witnessed any ill effects in years of rescue work with dozens of dogs. At issue is the idea that one cannot entirely prevent a northern dog that wants to chew something from finding something to chew. It is best to make a choice that has your dog’s agreement, than have it eat the fence, the frame off the house window or door, or trees in the yard. At least one Siberian we know took up eating rocks, which proved both expensive, anxiety producing, and painful to the dog.

11. Inspect that portion of the yard to be used by the dog–especially if it is to be used when the family is not present. Check for plants that are toxic to dogs. See the list in the CCNDR library on our website for ones that should be removed. Also, check the fences, gates, and other items likely to fascinate a dog, such as garden tools, sprinkler heads that are exposed, or ground lighting. Unless one knows that the dog is mature and not inclined to take an interest in such items, they are best removed.

A northern dog can squeeze through an amazingly small space beside a gate post, under a gate, or under a fence. A gap as small as 4 inches is enough to permit a 50 pound dog to escape. Only a cock roach can maneuver through a small place better than a northern dog!

Northern dog breeds all have a reputation for digging. If you are the new proud owner of a northern breed of dog, it is essential to examine the fence line carefully to be sure that it is designed to prevent a new dog from digging out. There are many solutions to the digging problem, but preventing it from becoming a problem first is the most important consideration for the safety of a new dog in the home.

Summary Shopping List

1. 2 stainless steel pans.
2. Food – an all natural dog food.
3. 1 Leash and perhaps 2 tabs, if available.
4. 1 Crate. For a 50 pound a #400 crate is reasonable, or an equivalent size in open mesh crates is a small.
5. An ID tag for your dog, with your own name, address, and phone number.
6. Grooming tools. 1 Slicker brush, 1 rake, and possibly 1 zoom groom.
7. Medications – flea, tic, and heart worm.
8. Miscellaneous – Nature’s Miracle and Bitter Apple.
9. An old towel, or inexpensive towels if one is not available.
10.Toys–your dog’s choice, except for avoiding rawhide.

Copyright© 2001, by Gary Wynn Kelly. Please respect the copyright, and only reproduce with all credits to the author and the Central Coast Northern Dog Rescue and Arctic Dog Rescue and Training Center. Individuals may copy and distribute this article on a non-commercial basis as long as no modifications are made and this notice is included with all copies.